I first visited the Indian subcontinent in the late 1970s, and while
in India, I was offered paan to chew. I never refuse food in case it
causes offence in other cultures, and most of the time I like what I'm
offered. However, sweet paan doesn't come into my 'like' category. I
remember feeling nauseous and giddy, and was grateful that I wasn't
expected to swallow it. Tobacco paan tasted even worse.
When I
came to Pakistan, two years ago, I had almost forgotten that paan
experience. Then I noticed that almost every other shop in the city of
Sheikhupura had a sign saying 'PAN' on it. Being curious, I asked if I
could go and look at one of the shops, which I thought might be selling
some traditional cooking pots. Of course, they were actually selling
paan, and the look on my face must have alerted my husband to the fact
that I didn't like it. He persevered, though and asked if I'd like to
try some sweet paan, or even tobacco paan. I declined his offers.
I'm
not quite sure what it is that I don't like in paan. It could be the
betel pepper leaf, which is the outer wrapping. On the other hand, it
could be one of the liquids used to coat the leaves. One is a lime
solution, not the fruit but calcium hydroxide, and the other is a pink
solution (katha or catechu) made from the wood of a type of a variety of
acacia tree. There again, the problem could be the betel nut (also
known as the areca nut, or supari in Urdu), although there are only
slivers of it in sweet paan. This grows on the betel palm tree and the
nut is rather like a nutmeg to look at. The betel nut is a stimulant
which is chewed without being wrapped in paan in India. It stains the
mouth a bright shade of orangey-red and modern medical research has
shown that it can bring on diabetes and could be the cause of oral
cancers.
It is used to sweeten the breath and throughout its long
history it has been thought of as an aphrodisiac. It is a traditional
wedding gift in Bengal. The ingredients for making it are presented to
the bride and groom, and as their love grows, the bride not only rolls
paan for her husband, but feeds it to him. Paan was widely eaten by
royalty and Krishna is said to have chewed the betel nut. This is
mentioned in the Shrimad Bhagavat, written around 5000 years ago.
Apparently, the Hindu god Vishnu likes to be presented with 32 betel
pepper vine leaves.
Poems have been created to paan, such as this one by the Bengali poet Mukhya Charan Bhattacharya:
She lives indoors but is not a woman.
Not sought by the young, but adored by the old.
She is a temptress like a firefly.
Fools will not interpret this and will remain confused.
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